Whether you have just started surfing or you’ve been surfing since you were a kid, you probably belong to one of the following groups. Be honest, sum everything up and find your tribe.
You probably wake up at dawn and wax your board, start your car and go wave hunting. 90% of your talk is about surfing, waves, surfboards, wet suits, ocean, tides, surf charts, kooks, pro surfers. Your holidays are surf trips. Your home is close to the surf breaks. You live depending on tides and go shopping surf equipment. Your partner is a surfer as well or at least he/she is fine with hanging out at the beach and taking photos of you surfing. Small reef cuts or cold don’t stop you from surfing since you have all those waterproof plasters, bandages and medicines that speed up the recovery process. Your career, your other hobbies, your house work, and your leisure time is less important. When the waves start rolling and the conditions are good everything else can wait.
You work in an office or at least you work 5 days per week from 9 am to 5 pm. You live in a city or at least not that close to surf breaks. Your only opportunity to surf is weekend and then you usually wake up early and drive a couple of hours to the first break.
A long time ago, you wanted to commit to surfing and surf more, every day, but somehow other things came, your family, career, chasing money…things changed. Or you are just happy to surf two days per week and move your butt from the chair. It is a kind of exercise.
You’ve probably just started surfing or you’ve tried surfing a couple of times but you have at least a dozen of surfboards (famous shapers) and you talk about surfing and “charging waves” all the time. You are not sure if you really like surfing but it is so “cool” that you want to be considered a “surfer”. You go to the gym to make up for the lack of surfing and to get a six-pack but you probably focus too much on your abs so you look more like a body builder than a surfer.
Waves are not burgers but since you don’t surf regularly and you are not so much into respecting others and waiting for your turn, you paddle for every wave, you drop in, and you piss off other surfers in the water. You are probably not the favourite face to see in the water. Often you paddle for the waves you know you can not catch but it is just stronger than you and you can’t help it. Your surf trips are not that long and you what to catch all the waves that you see. That time limit gives you additional pressure so you seem like a headless chicken in the water sneaking around and paddling for whatever looks like a wave. Slow down before you become an“enemy of the surf” and start getting hassled by locals.
You can surf and you love surfing but somehow you easily get scared of the bigger sets, other people on the way, crowd, current, possibility of drowning. You have one favourite surf spot where you always surf because you know it so well but even there during the days of bigger swells you hesitate paddling to the line-up and even if you do so, you often pull off when you are supposed to take off or you just paddle around not even trying to catch waves. Your progress is slow and you are often pissed off and disappointed. Maybe you didn’t grow up surfing and you started surfing as a grown-up but that’s fine. Start learning more about the ocean, its tides, currents, swells. Take a free-diving course or improve your swimming and diving techniques and you will probably overcome that fear that blocks you. And yes, take a leap of faith and go to some other surf breaks and try taking off on a bit bigger waves than you’ve got used to. You may be falling a lot but that’s the part of the game.
You love competitions and you don’t mind stress, anxiety, pressure. Every surfing session is a kind of showing that you can do a better bottom turn, snap, cut back, air than someone else or better than you did them the other day. You are always in a mood for entering the competitions and if you lose you are devastated. You rarely surf for fun and if there is no one around to see you. Attention from others is what you need to surf better. You’re born to be a pro surfer.